Calamares en su tinta

Hoy vamos a cocinar otro plato, que probablemente se ha comido y se come en todos los hogares españoles.Todos los cefalópodos son capaces de emitir este pigmento, que popularmente se denomina tinta. Esta tinta se emplea en algunos países del área mediterránea en la elaboración de algunos platos. La tinta del calamar es tóxica salvo que se cocine. No dispongo de la receta de mi madre, así que os presentamos la elaboración de la familia de mi Mujer a quien se la transmitió su Madre. Habrá que trabajar un poco, no mucho, en la cocina.



El primer paso es picar abundante cebolla y pocharla lentamente en aceite con un poco de sal para que sude antes. Cuando la cebolla esté en su punto echamos los calamares que habremos limpiado bien y troceado.

Cuando ya han soltado su agua y se van quedando con una salsa espesa, incorporamos tomate frito casero y mezclamos. Posteriormente hacemos lo mismo con la tinta. Preferimos la de sepia a la tinta de calamar.

Es el momento de añadir el vino blanco y el majado de ajo y perejil en crudo. Removemos bien y dejamos que la salsa tenga la textura deseada.

Nuestro guiso está listo para emplatar y comer. En nuestra familia existe la costumbre de mezclar el arroz con los calamares y comerlo todo junto.

El primer interrogante que surge es el de quién tuvo la idea de agregar al guiso de unos calamares la tinta que utilizan estos cefalópodos para defenderse en el mar, conociendo seguramente la toxicidad en crudo de esta tinta. Esta propiedad desaparece simplemente con el calentamiento. Se ha dicho que tal vez nace, no como una receta culinaria, sino como un rito ligado a prácticas de brujería precisamente por su toxicidad. El segundo misterio es el de su origen geográfico. Hay quien sostiene que los chipirones en su tinta son una creación autóctona vasca. Es cierto que es un elemento distintivo de la culinaria vasca e incluso de la española en general. Decía, allá por los años 20 del siglo pasado, el cocinero aragonés Teodoro Bardají que los calamares en su tinta eran conocidos en el extranjero como «calamares a la española». Pero hay también quien ha atribuido a esta receta una procedencia oriental. Y más concretamente, que trajeron a España y Venecia los jesuitas que evangelizaron Filipinas en el siglo XVII. Calamares y chipirones en su tinta se desarrollaron en el norte, en el País vasco y el risotto al nero de sepia en Venecia. Ya en el siglo XVIII aparecen las referencias a los arroces negros de las Comunidades Autónomas Valenciana y Catalana

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